Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Another scrap from the table

I am off to the vampire this morning and maybe Target. Below is another column from June 24, 1998.

Later, Dude.

Fine dining comes to city


Amarillo, until recently, has lacked a restaurant which could be considered a fine dining establishment. Sure, there are the country clubs and the Amarillo Club, but people must belong to the clubs, or know someone who is a member, to eat there. Many Amarillo restaurants serve wonderful food, but none provide gourmet cuisine and all the accompaniments.

Hobby and Linda Kuehnast hope to fill that void with the opening of Occasions Elegant Dining.

The couple have transformed the former home of Cajun Magic on Paramount Boulevard into a peaceful, formal setting for six-course meals. The restaurant contains several cozy rooms providing private areas to enjoy conversation as well as food and wine. The various nooks will seat from two to six people - the restaurant will seat about 40 people at a time, Hobby said.

Each table is set with linen tablecloths, fine china and crystal. Candlelight and piano music help set the mood.

Hobby brings more than 30 years of food and beverage experience to his new restaurant and longtime dream. He was co-manager of the Crosstimbers Restaurant. He also has worked for Glazer Wholesale Drug Co. Inc., which distributes wine and liquor among other items, and most recently Abuelo's.

The couple checked out many fine restaurants, including The Mansion on Turtle Creek, before deciding on the format for the new eatery. Hobby said they got many wonderful ideas from a bed and breakfast owner in Ruidoso, N.M.

Michael Noblitt, who has training in French cuisine, serves as chef for Occasions Elegant Dining. He cut his teeth in the restaurant business at Hans Mueller Deli and Restaurant and Pepi's Deli, both in Dallas.

Creating a menu from the ground up is a task that any chef would love, Noblitt said. He lauded efforts by officials at Affiliated Foods and Ben E. Keith Food for making sure he has the right cuts of veal, etc. that he needs.

Adding a Southwestern touch to many of the dishes is Rudy Moreno.

The menu features some dishes that will remain on the menu permanently and some dishes that will vary with the seasons.

Appetizer choices include Artichoke Fritters with Avgolemono Sauce (a citrusy, tart flavor), La Tapa de Camerones (shrimp) and Caviar Potatoes.

The soup course contains the signature dish for the restaurant - Occasions de French Onion, a creation of Hobby's. Cream of Green Chiles with Haberno Cheese showcases Moreno's touch. The seasonal special when I dined at the restaurant was Creamy Fresh Asparagus.

Spring Mesclun with Roasted Pine Nuts; Caesar Salad for two, prepared tableside; and a seasonal special make up the salad course. The salad with pine nuts blends a combination of sweet and bitter tasting lettuce and a tartish dressing. The seasonal special features fresh fruits on a bed of lettuce with a citrus dressing. Mini dill rolls, baked in house, accompanied the salads.

Diners may choose between lemon or raspberry sorbet for the intermezzo course. The sorbet is commercially prepared, but good.

Choosing entrees proved to be the most difficult decision of the evening. Noblitt and Moreno prepare Roast Prime Rib Jus-lie and Horseradish Sauce (available on Friday and Saturday only); Omaha Filet with Rodolfo Sauce and Black Russian Potatoes; Chef's Southwestern Especial; Pecan Crusted Chicken with Mandarin Chutney; Veal Medallions with Rosemary Sauce; Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Maple Pecan Glaze; Grilled Salmon with Tarragon-Lime Butter; and Shrimp Occasion with Grilled Vegetable Medley.

My dinner companion chose the filet, which was so tender a knife almost was unnecessary. I decided on the salmon, which was just right.

It's no secret that the dessert course ranks at the top of my list. If a restaurant does poorly on what I consider the piece de resistance, I almost consider the dining experience a failure.

Not to worry, this occasion lived up to expectations. Chocolate Fruit Fondue for Two was just the right topper for the meal - long on chocolate and adequate amounts of fruit. My cohort decided to try the Cheesecake de Occasion. The bite of the cheesecake I took (yes, I shared my chocolate, too) was not too sweet and not too bland.

The service was prompt and discreet for the two-hour meal.

Occasions Elegant Dining opens at 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday with the last seating at 8:30 p.m. Cost is $40 a person, which includes tax and gratuity. Wine and beer selections are priced separately. With seating limited, reservations are advised. Call 353-6345.

Linda said the restaurant will serve the basic menu for lunch for $15. Reservations are required for lunch. The couple hope to draw businessmen or businesswomen who need a quiet place to finalize a deal or just discuss business that requires discretion.

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